There is no shortage of true and harrowing accounts of The Holocaust, what more can be said? Lucy Adlington looks at this shocking time from a unique perspective: that of textiles and clothes. She demonstrates how ‘the Nazis understood the power of clothes as performance, demonstrated by their adoption of iconic uniforms at monumental public rallies. Uniforms are a classic example of using clothing to reinforce group pride and identity’. They were aware of the power of clothing and the significant wealth of the European textile industry, which was dominated by Jewish talent and capital.

Reading the insidious way that the Nazis turned European against Jewish European is a lesson in pure evil. How a comfortable, multiracial society could turn so quickly is a lesson that should never be forgotten. Families who had lived in harmony side by side for generations were now pitted against each other. There are many stories of courageous souls who put their lives at risk to protect Jews, but they are far outnumbered by those who saw an opportunity to profit from the situation, at best turning a blind eye, at worst, alerting the Nazis to Jewish hiding places.

Adlington introduces us to twenty-five women inmates of Auschwitz-Birkenau concentration camp, who were selected to work in the Upper Tailoring Studio, a dedicated salon established by Hedwig Hoss, wife of the camp commandant. They designed, cut and sewed beautiful fashion for elite Nazi women, while the crematorium fires raged beside them.

This is not an easy read, the deprivations and cruelties meted out to the poor souls who found themselves in this hell-hole are unspeakable. But the story also speaks of the extraordinary courage and resilience of these women, whose skill with needle and thread proved to be their salvation.

Lucy Adlington has written several books exploring costume, clothing and textile history. Her research is meticulous, and if I had one criticism to offer, it’s the amount of detail she shares which can be overwhelming at times.

The book has an extensive Bibliography, Notes on Sources and thorough Index. Although this is a non-fiction book, it is written in an accessible style and sheds light on a chapter of The Holocaust not seen before.

When we meet Ella, she is running to what would appear to be a job interview. But this is no ordinary competition for a cushy job as a seamstress - this is life and death. Because Ella is in a place she calls Birchwood, but we know it as Auschwitz-Birkenau. To gain a position at the grandly named Upper Tailoring Studio, means a chance to survive.

Lucy Adlington has told a familiar story from a totally different perspective. Before reading this novel I didn’t know that Auschwitz had a sewing workshop. Adlington doesn’t shy away from the horrors that Ella experiences, but the story is told with honesty and compassion. Ella’s friendship with Rose is especially moving and engaging.

This is a story about intolerance. As Ella says:
“I hated the star. I hated all the badges, and all the Lists too. I just hated the way some people had to shove others into a box with a label and say, You’re different. Once you’re labelled ‘different’, people can treat you as if you don’t matter. Which is stupid. I wasn’t a badge or a number. I was Ella!"

It’s sad to say that this message still needs to be voiced loud and clear. If only we could learn from the past.

Readers who enjoyed The Boy in the Striped Pyjamas, I am David and The Silver Sword, will find this novel thoroughly readable and engrossing. Highly recommended.